Melodies of Bombay Shola

Shola forest is endemic to the Western Ghats and is one of the most unique ecosystems present in our country. The name Shola was given by the Britishers which originates from the Tamil word Solai. The Bombay Shola got its name because Colonel Partridge of the then Bombay (now Mumbai) Regiment of the Indian Army had a cottage there. Bombay Shola had natural grasslands that are close to Kodaikanal. Today the grasslands are encroached by urban settlements and monoculture of Eucalyptus trees. Even though 85% of the grasslands are encroached by Pine, Eucalyptus, and Acacia trees in the upper hills, a few sholas are still thriving in some places.

Bombay Shola is one of the most vulnerable forests surrounded by resorts, roads and markets. However, despite these disturbances, the Shola provides shelter for myriad birds’ species and a few mammal species like Indian Gaur Bos gaurus, Malabar Giant Squirrel Ratufa indica and Indian Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista philippensis. Probably two centuries before this place would have been a better habitat for Sambar Deer Rusa unicolor, Smooth-coated Otter Lutrogale perspicillata, Indian Elephant Elephas maximus indicus etc. Due to the degradation of grasslands, the Nilgiri Pipit Anthus nilghiriensis lost its habitat in these areas and are now in a precarious state. But still, the dense shola is a good habitat for the endemic birds such as the Palani Chilappan (Palani Laughing Thrush) Montecincla fairbanki and White-bellied Sholakili Sholicola albiventris.

I have been visiting Shola since 2010. During my initial visits, I witnessed some of the common birds seen in the sholas such as the Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis, Black-and-orange flycatcher Ficedula nigrorufa, Indian Blackbird Turdus simillimus, and Palani Chilappan Montecincla fairbanki etc. As a bird enthusiast, I document the bird sightings every time I visit Shola and most of the species sighted are endemic to the Ghats. Whenever I stay overnight, I look forward to waking up to the calls of the Shola Avifauna the next morning. Out of all the birds, the call of White-bellied Sholakili Sholicola albiventris is very unique and rhythmic. During the early morning hours when the shola forest is silent due to the absence of man-made noises such as loudspeakers, horns etc., the call of White-bellied Sholakili fills the air with musical notes.

The Palani Chilappan Montecincla fairbanki is a gregarious bird that can be found in the montane grasslands and sholas. I noted an interesting behavior of the birds popping out and hiding back in the bushes as if playing a game of hide-n-seek. The continuous call of “pe-kee-ke” helps to identify these birds. Palani Chilappan is purely dependent on the montane grasslands and sholas for their habitat.

Black and Orange Flycatcher Ficedula nigrorufa creates beautiful notes which are shorter but apparently rhythmic and metallic. The upper shola road helps to get the broader view of the canopy of Bombay shola where the Nilgiri Flycatcher Eumyias albicaudatus can be well sighted. Another tiny endemic bird of Western Ghats, the Nilgiri Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor, is common here and the repetitive “tzrik” notes help to find their presence. The Nilgiri Woodpigeon Columba elphinstonii also endemic to Western Ghats and slightly bigger than the Rock-pigeon can seldom be seen in Bombay shola.

The other colourful birds sighted here are Yellow-browed Bulbul Acritillas indica, Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus, and Squaretailed Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa. The Indian White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus and Black-lored Tit Machlolophus aplonotus can be easily found in low hanging branches and fences of the Bombay Shola. The glorifying flame on the dead trees with the high-pitched trill or drum call is sure to be a Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus.

The Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis forage on the branches and trunks of the old trees which are coated with lichens and moss. The reddish bill and aquamarine upperparts of these dwarf creatures get glorified when the dense sholas are lit by the sunlight.

The Shola Forest is pleasant in the morning hours rather than in the evening. One can find the sounds of the Shola to be soothing however, due to the vehicular movement in upper and lower Shola Road, there is a lot of disturbance during the daytime. High decibel horns used in heavy vehicles disrupt the ambiance of the forest as well the resorts and pilgrims around the area cause environmental pollution. To protect and preserve the Bombay shola and its species, the government should take immediate action towards noise pollution. Noise is still not recognized as pollution among many of us. We need to think about the tiny creatures and their ability to tolerate the high decibel sounds.

I again visited the place post COVID-19 pandemic lockdown and asked the caretaker about how the sholas looked with no human activity. He took a deep breath and said, “It felt like heaven”.

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